Discovering the Fittie

Footdee, or the 'Fittie' as it is more commonly known as in Aberdeen, is nothing short of charming. Upon reaching the end of the beach promenade you would be forgive for thinking that there was nothing next to the harbour expect grey, cold stone houses. But if you walk a little way up to get around a wall (and in my case climb over it) and then turn the corner you will be amazed to discover the Fittie that lies before you. 

The area itself has been inhabited as far back as the Medieval times but is mostly known for housing the local fishing community of Aberdeen. The Footdee, as a housing development was laid out by John Smith (a well known Aberdonian architect) in 1809 and has since then seen many seafaring families come and go. The rhythmical crashing of waves and the smell of salt reminds you that you are in close proximity to the beach. Although from the narrow streets of the Fittie you cannot see the sea as all the houses face inwards with their backs to the ocean to protect their inhabitants from the weathers cold grasp. 

In 1880 the Town Council decided to start selling the houses to their inhabitants and so began a time of reconstruction and individuality in the Fittie. Some people built 'tarry sheds' in the squares of open land that the houses faced. These sheds were originally built from drift wood but over the years some of them have been built and rebuilt using other materials. 

But all the houses and sheds have personality. 

It jumps out at you in the vibrant colours that scream knock on my door. 

It is whispered as you walk by the strangest decorations in the gardens. 

It is written in the history of a hard life lived. 

It is noticeable in the smallest of details. 

It laughs with you at the absurdity of it all. 

It smiles back at you as you realise that you just encountered a slice of something out of the ordinary 

But shhhhhh don't tell anyone.....

The 'Fittie' is hidden from the public's view by stone walls,  

but it's a discovery worth making. 

Dunnottar Castle - A fortress of memories

As you take the turn off the main A92 and begin to meander along a country road, large stone walls begin to materialize on the horizon. You catch glimpses of a castle tower, and then walls, anchored to the land but at the same time seemingly floating in the ocean. Against all grown up logic my imagination starts galloping ahead and I am sure that with every winding step towards the castle the mystery, adventure and magic of my first Scottish castle is coming alive. It's in the waves crashing on the cliffs below, the eerily coldness of the rooms and the feeling of for a split second knowing how it was to live when Kings and Queens ruled and fortresses like Dunnottar Castle were home to powerful Earls.  

Dunnottar Castle 

Dunnottar Castle from the steps, which may not seem it on the way down but are pretty darn steep.

Long gone are the days when Dunnottar stood magnificently on the cliff top daring any enemy brave enough to  tackle its fortress walls to come charging. But its sense of determination is still there in the Keep that refuses to fall and the Chapel that remembers all the years of prayers. Not surprising then that the name Dunnottar stems from the Pictish word 'Dun' which means hill fort or place of strength. And although the giant stone walls that once were pillars of strength and resistance have crumbled and the grass has laid claim to them, some parts of this place refuses to give up its fight. 

One of the most powerful families in Scotland, the Earls Marischal, from the 14th Century lived in Dunnottar Castle and built the Tower House, also known as the Keep, which still stands today. Yet this is not the thing most talked about or remembered about Dunnottar. Instead what is spoken about in battle stories far and wide is that it was here at the place of strength upon a hilltop that a small garrison held out against the might of Cromwell's army and saved the Scottish Crown Jewels (the Honours of Scotland). The remarkable part of this story is that they did not just fight off Cromwell's men once but held them off for eight months. Can you imagine the isolation, fear but sheer determination the people inside the castle must have felt to survive and somehow sneak the crown jewels out. The jewels which consisted of the crown, sceptre and sword can now all be found proudly on display in Edinburgh Castle.

The Palace reflected in the fountain. 

The Tower House or Keep 

A dinning room in the Palace. This is the  best preserved room in the castle.

Part of the Palace.

Bending through doorways, following narrow spiral staircases and walking down large stone steps into dark rooms where your breathe turns to vapour as soon as it leaves your mouth is slightly unnerving as you enter rooms like the Whig's Vault that house some of the more sinister chapters of Dunnottar's history. In 1685 a group of 167 Covenanters (122 men and 45 women) were imprisoned in the Whig's Vault, suffering deprivation, hardship and torture for refusing to acknowledge the King's supremacy in spiritual matters.  The room is long and narrow but standing there while white clouds dissipate in front of my face I can't imagine the horrific situation of having 167 people crammed in that one room, with no way out. 

The Chapel also has a darker chapter to its history. In the 12th Century it became a Catholic settlement with a stone chapel being built in 1276. Yet according to sources William Wallace set fire to this chapel with a garrison of English soldiers taking refugee inside. The chapel that we see now at Dunnottar was built in the 16th Century.  

The Chapel 

Dunnottar Castle has a history that goes back centuries and it has over time become part of the landscape. Deserted by its residents it has become a playground for the wind and rain, a safe haven for the birds, a graveyard of memories of past inhabitants and a exploration for all those that visit it.